Eating Like a Local in Split, Croatia

One of the biggest perks of living in a new city each month with Remote Year is that you really have the time to explore the food scene. Plus, I have 50 other humans to recommend restaurants they've tried, which results in some pretty damn good food. If you're looking for the best places to eat in Split, your search is over. 

 

Best Seaside Dining: Dvor

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Located off Bačvice Beach, Caffe-Restoran Dvor not only tops the charts for best seaside dining, but for one of the best date night spots as well. My date might have been my roomie, but it was a v romantic setting nonetheless 😋  Their outdoor patio is a dream, situated next to the beautiful Adriatic Sea. 

  Can I stay here forever?

Can I stay here forever?

I'm all for good views, but the food has to stack up. And at Dvor, it definitely does. The restaurant specializes in Mediterranean cuisine with traditional Dalmatian dishes. Our meal started with a soparnik amuse-bouche, which is a traditional Croatian 'pie' usually filled with kale or swiss chard. We followed that up with yet another Croatian staple - prosciutto. A very solid start. 

  Soparnik

Soparnik

  Prosciutto

Prosciutto

For the main course, I highly recommend the truffle pasta. It's ta-die. The fish was also extremely fresh, light and delicious. Needless to say, I am now a proud member of the clean plate club.

  White fish and truffle pasta

White fish and truffle pasta

On par with the whole experience, the service here was exceptional. Our waiter was very attentive, friendly, and prompt (which isn't always the norm in this seaside town). If you're looking for an upscale experience with great food and views, Dvor is the spot. 

 

Best Casual Dining: Papa's 

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Another gem near Bačvice Beach, Papa's is a favorite among locals for their (get this) American cuisine. If you ask me what I miss most about America, it might be buffalo chicken strips (don't judge). So when I found a restaurant with hot wings on the menu, I was a very happy camper 🙌

  Buffalo wings

Buffalo wings

  Papa's Burger

Papa's Burger

The consensus? The wings were so-so (I have high standards), but dat burger tho 👌  Definitely the best we've had thus far on this side of the pond. The one downside to this place was that the service was slowwww. But that's the European beach vibe for ya. 

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Even so... it doesn't get much better than this. 

 

best cevapi: kantun paulina

  Look at that beautiful roomie showin' it off

Look at that beautiful roomie showin' it off

Cevapi, Croatian's most famous street food, combines sausage, ajvar (Serbian roasted red pepper sauce), onions, feta, and sour cream for a match made in food heaven. Not trying cevapi in Croatia is like not getting a hot dog in Chicago - blasphomous. So is it any coincidence that the best in town shares a name with my grandma who was also the best cook? I don't think so. 

  I mean come onnnnnn

I mean come onnnnnn

You can find Cevapi all over the city, but it was our Remote Year city team member Mate who introduced us to this place. Since the ingredients are generally the same across all the places, quality matters. Maybe it was the bread that made it at Kantun Paulina, or maybe it was the sauce or sausage. But I'm pretty sure it was the bread. 

 

Best Old Town Restaurant: Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar

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If there's one place that comes highly recommended by everyone, it's Bokeria. The Spanish-inspired space is beautiful, bright, and smack dab in the middle of old town. Did I mention super chic?

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Bokeria is Mediterranean, elevated. Simple swaps, like mozzarella vs. ricotta-filled ravioli, makes the food stand out more than any other place we've tried in Split. The menu has a good variety of food too - from seafood to pasta and steak.

  Sea bass and ravioli

Sea bass and ravioli

  Bombolini   appetizer

Bombolini appetizer

Beyond the food, the service here is exceptional and they had no problem accommodating our large group. Just make sure to make a reservation - this place fills up quick. 

 

Best Gelato: Luka

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I'm usually not a huge dessert person, but I can get down with some gelato. The best place to find it in Split? Luka. It's been a big debate in our group whether Luka is gelato or ice cream, but I'm stickin' with gelato and the haters can find me later. 

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Located in the heart of old town, Luka offers unique flavors you couldn't find at your traditional gelato spot. You'll find flavors like mascarpone fig, raisin, honey lavender, and dark chocolate.

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After asking for samples of almost every flavor, I decided on chocolate chili and plum cream in a raspberry cone, and it was so good that I am now thanking the Lord I don't live closer to this place. 

 

best cocktail bar: noor

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Cocktails are pretty hard to find in Split, so coming across Noor was like finding a diamond in a haystack. This cute little bar is a hole-in-the-wall, literally, in an old town alley. There's no seating inside, but they'll point you to a nearby staircase where you can sit, sip, and mingle. We met the sweetest Australian couple and talked with them all night. 

  Noor's seating area

Noor's seating area

Noor's craft cocktails were on par with some of the best I've had in the US - complete with innovative recipes and local ingredients. The bartenders knew the menu inside and out, and were great at recommending drinks based on flavors or drinks you like. The only downside to this place? Finding it at the end of the month. 

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Cheers to a month full of delicious Dalmatian food and drinks. Or as the locals say, "živjeli!" 🥂